Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
